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Largemouth Bass: America's Most Popular Sportfish |
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By Sam Webb, UTAH FISHING General Manager
Undisputedly America's most popular gamefish, the largemouth bass, is found in every state except Alaska.. The world-record largemouth came from Montgomery Lake, Georgia in 1932. It weighed 22 pounds 4 ounces. The Utah state record largemouth came out of Lake Powell in 1974. It weighed 10 pounds 2 ounces. In Utah largemouth bass rarely grow more than about eight pounds. Largemouth were introduced into Utah in 1890. From that time until about 1913 it enjoyed great popularity as a commercial and game fish, chiefly in Utah Lake. When carp were introduced into the state the largemouth population rapidly declined and interest in the fish lagged. Recently the largemouth have regained their popularity and the DWR is actively managing them to increase their numbers. This fish, also known as the black bass, varies in color depending on its environment. In clear lakes and streams with light bottom sands, it has a bright coloration — dark green sides and silvery belly. In other waters its belly is greenish-white and sometimes yellow or pink. There is a broad dark band on the sides composed of irregular patches. The band is present in both adults and young, but is less distinct in older fish. In lakes with mud bottoms, the coloring is less vivid in adults and the fry may have almost no coloration. The easiest way to tell largemouth from the smallmouth bass is to check the upper jaw. Largemouth upper jaws extend behind the eye when the mouth is closed. Smallmouth upper jaws don't. Largemouth bass are omniverous feeders that are most active in the early morning and evening and at temperatures ranging from 65 to 73 degrees. During warm summer months they will feed at night. The young fish feed mostly on insects and other small invertebrates. However as the fish grows its food increases in variety and in size. Adults take worms, mussels, frogs, crayfish, and other fish, including their own kind. On occasion they will take mice, shrews and have even been known to take small duckling and snakes. Largemouth can be caught on almost any lure but are most impressive when they hit a topwater plug. They thrive in weedy lakes, ponds and backwaters where they feed close to shore and in the vacinity of plant beds. During the middle of the day they feed in deeper water, but in the early morning and evening will move into shallow water and feed right on the surface. The male guards the nest during spawning season. During this time he will usually ignore food items but will strike viciously at anything (including lures) that he considers a threat to his young. The largemouth spawn does not begin until the water temperature reaches about 62 degrees (early to mid-May in northern Utah). The male builds the nest in a sandy or gravelly area or on mats of dead vegetation in two to four feet of water. In sandy areas the male fans out a circular depression about six inches deep and two to four feet wide. The female lays from 2,000 to 25,000 eggs. The male keeps the nest clean by fanning it with his cadal fin. The temperature of the water deternimes when the eggs hatch. It usually takes about eight to ten days. Largemouth can survive extremes of habitat and a wide range of water temperatures from near freezing to over 90 degrees. It can prosper and grow large in very small lakes and ponds but prefers larger clear waters. Following are tips on how to catch largemouth: 1) Learn as much as you can about the fishes habits and habitat. 2) Develop confidence in your bassing techniques. 3) Fish slowly and deliberately. 4) Use contour maps to determine fish holding structures. 5) Learn to use a few lures well. 6) Learn to cast accurately. 7) Use your boat effectively. 8) Play the fish properly. Each tip is addressed in detail in the following pages. The most important thing to learn about largemouth is their pattern — where they are found in a given body of water at different times of the year (and day) and why they are found there. There are seasonal patterns, daily patterns, patterns based on water temperature, food and cover availability, spawning pressures, and combinations of most of the above. The best way to discover these patterns is to talk to other fishermen that spend a lot of time on the water you want to learn to fish. Read everything you can get your hands on about largemouth. There are also some good videos that you will find interesting (check out your favorite sporting goods store). Largemouth bass, as a species, tends to favor shallow, weedy areas or other areas with plenty of cover that can be used as protection and as ambush points. As the seasons (and water temperatures) change the bass will move into the most favorable areas of the lake or reservoir. In the summer, don't expect to find bass in the same places you found them in the spring. As the water cools in the fall they will move again. You will have to discover the pattern for the water you want to fish. Sometimes bass fishing can involve as much hunting as fishing. Bass are relatively inactive in the cold water of late winter and early spring. However, a sustained warm spell in early spring will really get the fish moving. As the water warms the fish will begin to move from their deep sanctuaries into areas more suitable for feeding and spawning. Shallow waters will warm up much faster than deeper ones and sometimes only a brief warm spell is all that is necessary to really get the bass moving. In deeper waters the bass will become active more slowly and over a longer period of time. Fish the shallower lakes early in the season. Don't be afraid to fish deep, especially if the water is cold. Fish as deep as 45 feet by bouncing a grub or plastic worm right along the bottom. As the water warms the bass will move toward shore and into shallow cover. When the surface temperature of the water is in the high 40's only a few bass will be active. As the temperature approaches the mid 50's the bass will become more energized and fishing will improve dramatically. When the temperature reaches the mid 60's the bass will move into the shallow water to spawn and actively feed. In early to mid spring, the afternoon is often the best time to fish. That is because the sun has had longer to warm the water. By mid-summer the water may be down-right hot in the shallows and then the bass will retreat into deeper cooler water, venturing into the shallows only at night or in the early morning and late evenings. Be sure to fish the shadows. Largemouth prefer the shade whenever possible. Fish around or under anything that provides shade for the bass. Watching your lure can really tell you a lot about what do do next. If you see a fish swirl as your bait nears the boat or shore or if you notice the lure suddenly move as a fish tries to strike it you immediately know a couple of things. First you know that there are bass in the area and you ought to work it thoroughly. Secondly you know that you are retrieving the lure too fast or that the fish are interested but not overly aggressive. You may need to slow the lure down, add stop-and-go action or simply change to a different type of lure. If you see fish following your lure or if they swipe at it but miss, toss a different lure back at the fish. When you catch a fish ask yourself, "Why was this fish located in this particular place and why did it take the lure I presented?" When fishing a new lake or reservoir look for heavy cover in shallow water, preferably near a drop-off into deeper water. In reservoirs almost any shallow cover will contain bass. Look for rocky points, bluffs, dropoffs, creek channels, etc. In lakes and ponds with lots of cover, the bass will be more selective. Look for weed beds, stumps, large rocks, fallen trees, channels and bars near deeper water. The very best way to develop confidence is to catch a lot of bass. Unfortunately, for beginning bass fishermen, on many of Utah's large reservoirs, you might as well try to learn to walk on water. To really develop your skills you need to find a relativelly small water that is full of bass. Catching only one or two bass a day just won't do it. First of all, it won't hold your interest and second of all, you won't know if you are doing something wrong or if there just aren't any bass in the area you are fishing. So, where is a small body of water full of hungry bass that you can practice on? The best place that I know of is called Granita Park. Granita Park is an oasis in a barren part of the Uintah Basin that has been developed by Grant Hansen. Hansen has been constructing ponds on his 8,000 acres for years, at first for irrigation and flood control, but recently to provide some exciting bass fishing. Granita Park now has over 14 ponds full of largemouth bass that range up to about 6 pounds. You can fish for a day or stay overnight and really enjoy the peace and solitude. The park boasts 36 bedrooms, three large meeting rooms, kitchens, a large deck, a zoo, hiking, sailboats, windsurfers, canoes, rafts, fishing boats, four trampolines, play houses, sandpiles and swings. The best part is the fishing. The ponds offer a variety of structures, vegetation, fallen trees and logs and lots and lots of bass. I had a chance to fish the ponds on Wednesday, July 12th with John Reising (Nevada Bob's), Randy Howard (The Old Fashion Service Station) and Mayve Headburg (Wilson sporting goods). We left Salt Lake about four in the morning and arrived at the park about seven. After being introduced to Grant and Rita Hansen, we climbed into a couple of small fishing boats and got to work. I had been given a Thunder Wonder plastic worm by Jim Perrick (he makes the Thunderhead lures) to try so I tied it on. The plastic bill really brought that worm to life. It caused it to dart from side to side in the water as I reeled it in. The bass couldn't resist it. I would cast to the edge of the cattails and reeds and then begin a slow retrieve (just fast enough to give the worm some action). Those bass hit that worm so hard and so many times that they literally tore it off the hook. I was impressed by the way that worm attracted those bass and by how hard those largemouths hit the worm. They really socked it. Reising was fishing with a Hula Popper and was also doing real well. It was a lot of fun watching the bass come out of hiding and hit that popper. It really drove them crazy. Fishing on the surface for largemouth reminded me a lot of fishing with dry flies for trout. There is something amazing about being able to bring a fish to the surface to hit a fly or lure. You can really get hooked on it. Next I tried a single tailed grub. It wasn't quite as effective as the worm but I still caught a lot of bass. A smoke colored grub with metalic or black sparkle seemed to work the best. I decided to try some crappie jigs and lead-head jigs, just to see how they worked. I caught a few fish but didn't have nearly the success as with the worm or grubs. I found that the more action I give the jigs, the more fish I caught. However, I had a hard time keeping the jigs from becoming tangled in the weeds that covered the bottom of each pond. I also gave a Mepp and Rooster Tail spinner a try. The bass couldn't resist them. I caught a fish on almost every cast when using a spinner. The problem was, they seemed to be smaller fish. There was definitely a correlation between the size of the lure and the size of the bass I caught. Now, there were exceptions to that rule. Reising caught a bass on his Hula Popper that wasn't any bigger than the lure. I couldn't believe it had hit it. It was a classic case of having a bigger mouth than stomach. I caught close to a hundred bass that day and I learned more about fishing for bass than on any other day that I can remember. If you were doing something wrong it was immediately evident — you didn't catch any fish. On the other hand, if you were fishing in the right place in the right way, you immediately knew it — you caught bass, lots of bass. Granita Park is the perfect place for a beginning bass fisherman to get his or her feet wet. You can bring your own float tube, rent a boat or just fish from the shore and in no time you will be completely hooked on largemouth bass. A days fishing at Granita Park will cost you $50.00 or you can fish for a day and stay overnight for $75.00 (double occupancy). If you want to learn to fish for largemouth bass, it will be the best $50.00 you have ever spent. For more information call 1-801-646-3307. Don't try to cover too much water in too big of a hurry. Slow down. Reading the water for signs that indicate bass may be in the area takes some time. Once you see signs that there may be bass, fish deliberately and thoroughly. Once you catch a fish, take time to note the type of lure you are are using, how deep the lure was running, the speed, distance from cover or structure, the type of cover or structure, cloud cover or other shade, and wind (if any). Once you figure out the pattern that worked you should be able to repeat it and really get into some largemouths. If you feel that a certain spot contains fish but you don't get any strikes or if a fish swirls past the lure but doesn't take it, change lure size or color. Many times a simple color change is all it takes. A good contour map of the water you want to fish can save you hours of hunting for structure. Largemouths like to hang out on the edges of steep dropoffs, the edges of channels' and where flats drop off into deeper water. A good map will zero you in on these structures in just a matter of minutes. A contour map will also help you fish a body of water more effectively. As you learn to fish more and more of the lake or reservoir you will continually be leaming something new and expanding your horizions. There will be times when the bass are not biting in the 'familiar' holes but will be very active in other parts of the lake. Don't be afraid to move around and to experiment with new areas. A depth finder can really help to locate channels and drop-offs, as well as pinpoint the exact location of any bass on the structure. Choose three or four different lures and work with them until you feel comfortable fishing any of them and until you can catch fish consistently. There is no reason to go out and spend hundreds of dollars on lures when three or four basic types will consistantly catch fish for you. The most popular bait for largemouth is the plastic worm. Plastic worms are deadly in clear, deep water. However, they lose their effectiveness in offcolored or silty water. Plastic worms come in just about every color ever invented by man or mother nature. Worms come with different types of tails that produce different actions. You might consider buying several types and experimenting until you discover which action is most effective for you. Worms are quite inexpensive so you won't be out much money if one type doesn't work very well. The popular colors seem to change from year to year and from water to water. Pumpkin seed, smoke (usually with metalic sparkle), black or deep blue, chartruse and red are popular colors. Don't be afraid to change colors if you aren't catching fish. In off colored water, lures that make noise or vibrate are the most effective (they will also work in clear water). Here crank baits, stick baits, poppers, propeller baits and spinner baits are the ticket. Crank baits include such things as Rapala, A. C. Shiner, Hellcat, Rebel Minnow, Bang-O-Lure, Thundersticks, Wiggle Warts, Lindy Shadling, Rat-L-Trap, ET, Crickhopper, Wee Frog, Shad-A-Lac, MaMa Cat, Fat Cat, Deep V-R, Pogo Shad, Bomber Model A's, Rebel Weedless Wee-R, Ratt't Spots, Jointed Doo-Dad, Stretch 10+, etc, etc. Once you get through the hype and confusion of names, all the above mentioned lures have lots of things in common. They are all made of wood and/or plastic; have long, thin profiles and lips that give them action and cause them to wobble and to dive to a designated depth. When buying one of these types of lures the first thing you want to ask yourself is how deep do I want the lure to dive. Some are designed to float right on top and to 'swim' on the surface or within a foot or two of the surface. Others are designed to sink and to dive to various depths. Read the label carefully before you buy. Next decide on the length and size of lure you want. They come in sizes from about two inches to six or eight. Next, look at color. These lures can cost between $3 and $8 each so make sure you know what you are buying. Crank baits are designed to represent an injured or dying baitfish. The biggest mistake that beginners will make is to try to fish these lures too fast. Fish slowly, let the lure float along in the current or wind. Give it a twitch and then let it sit. Slow really does mean slow — probably slower than you have ever fished before. Work these lures along the edge of weed beds, over deep drop-offs and just off of steep banks and submerged boulders or trees. Stick baits are a variation of the crank baits mentioned above. They are large plastic or wooden lures that are weighted in their tail. This causes the tail to sit slightly lower in the water than the head. There are no lips to cause action and to cause the lure to dive so they are more difficult to work properly. Common name brands are Zara Spook, Woodwalker, Slap-Stick, etc. Make the lure pop and dance. The idea is to imitate a bait fish being chased by a preditor or a wounded fish. Fish stick baits close to cover, off tapering points when there are deep, suspended bass, along deep weed beds and over standing timber or deep structures. Cast the lure over the structure or near the edge of a weed bed. Lower the rod tip to near your ankles and tighten up the fine. Use wrist action to quickly snap the rod tip downward toward the water (about five or six inches). Reel up most of the slack line and prepare to snap the rod tip again. Vary the speed (but fish sowly), try harder or softer snaps and increase or decrease the time between each snap until you figure out what the fish prefer. Properly fished, these lures can really bring the big bass to the boat. Propeller baits (buzz baits) include Devil's Horse, Injured Minnow, Tiny Torpedo, Hellraiser, Crippled Killer, etc. These lures are usually longer than they are wide but are quite stubby. They contain either one or two propellers that create a lot of noise as well as really stir up the water. These baits are designed to be used in areas of dense weeds or muddy or murky water where the bass may have a difficult time seeing the lure — the bass can zero in on the sound and commotion. You can buy either floating or sinking varieties. Propeller baits (floating) really work well over dense weed beds or submerged brush. They are also effectively fished in holes between weed beds. They should be, fished fairly fast — fast enough to make the propellers work properly. Once the bait is moving, keep it moving. When a largemouth goes after the propeller bait, it expects it to try to get away. Some die-hard bass fishermen say that the front propeller can interfere with the line and even cut it. They also say that one propeller makes enough noise to do the job. When they buy a propeller bait they either buy one with only a back propeller or they remove the front one. Poppers and chuggers are really fun to fish with. The first time a big bass takes a swipe at one you will just about jump right out of your boat (or right off the bank into the water). Popular brands are Pop-R, Hula Popper, Pico Pop, etc. These lures are plastic or wooden baits with a scooped-out head (concave) that produces a loud popping or splashing noise when it is snapped. They float right on the surface so when the bass hits it really puts on a show. Supposedly, poppers represent a small fish feeding right on the surface. I don't know how true that is but I do know that the noise and splashing the lure makes can really put largemouths on the feed. Poppers should be fished using the snap method described previously. Don't let the lure sit too long in one spot without giving it a good snap. The idea isn't to retreive the lure quickly, but to keep it 'dancing' on the water. Give it a good snap, let it sit for 10 to 20 seconds and then give it another one. If there are feeding bass around you will soon know it. Once you get the hang of fishing the types of lures already mentioned, you might consider crawlers (Jitterbug, Crazy Crawler, etc.). These are noisy surface lures that are designed to represent a mouse or rat swimming across the surface. They should be slowly reeled straight in without popping or varying the speed of the lure. These lures are most effective along the shoreline or near logs or other floating debris where small animals might be caught in the water. They are generally not as effective in open water. I haven't spent any time talking about grubs and other soft plastic lures. There is an amazing assortment in this category including shad imitations, frog imitations, single tail and double tail grubs, tubes (skirts), crawdad imitations and more. Some common brand names are: Tender Tubes, Tripple Ripple, Guido's Bug, Broad Tail, Tender Head, Squirmin Grub, Spring Grub, Fat Gitzit, Squirmin Squirt, Pro-Tail, Skitterfish, Snakebait, Plummer's Super Frog, Scun Frog, etc. These baits (as well as spinnerbaits) will be covered in a future UTAH FISHING article. Bass almost always hold close to some type of cover. You may have to be able to put your lure right on top of the fish, into a small hole in the weeds, between branches of a fallen tree, along the edge of a weed bed or under overhanging branches. It is much more important to be able to cast accurately than it is to be able to cast a great distance. The only way to develop accuracy is to practice. You should be able to drop your lure into a small bucket (10 or 12 quart size) from 30 or 40 feet on just about every cast. Casting your lure into a bunch of cattails, into the branches of a tree or into the middle of a weed bed can really mess up your fishing trip. Casting accurately can be summed up in one word: practice. Learning to position your boat to most effectively fish structure or cover can really improve your success. Don't be in a hurry. Fish the outer edges of the cover or structure first then move in and fish the main area. Pick specific targets to fish and don't cast until you are in position. Always work the deeper water first before you move into the shallows. If you think a fish is stationed by a stump or fallen tree or other structure, cast well beyond it and then retrieve the lure past the structure. Take advantage of wind whenever possible. If you can drift into the area you want to fish, do it. Don't fight the wind. It will cause you to miss valuable fishing time and may alert fish to your approach. Largemouths love the cover and shade provided by a dock. Docks are especially productive if they either extend into deep water or are near a drop-off into deep water. Position your boat a few yards off the end of the dock so that you can cast straight along its edge. Cast your lure as far up into the shallows & as close to the side of the dock as possible and then retrieve it right along the side. The closer to the dock you are the better your chances of catching a fish. You have to cast right in next to the dock. If you are not within a few inches of the structure you will probably not catch many fish. Be sure to fish both sides of the dock (the shadowed side will probably be the most productive) and fish both shallow and deep. Boat positioning is critical to allow you to run your bait along the full length of the dock. With the lighter tackle most of us use today it is important to play the bass carefully. Don't horse the fish to the boat or you may tear a hole in the membraine around the mouth big enough for the hook to slip out, or worse, you may break your line and the bass may swim away still wearing your lure. Try to keep the fish in the water. Keep enough pressure on the fish to tire it and to bring it to the boat without causing it to jump. Once air-borne largemouth often throw the hook. Either net the fish or grab it by its lower lip when you land it. Keep your fingers (and anything else) away from its gills. And, don't squeeze it. Take a few quick pictures and release the fish back into the water. If you have a livewell in your boat, use it, but don't fill it with so many fish that they can't survive. You might as well kill the fish yourself as throw it into an over-crowded livewell. The longer a fish is out of the water, the less chance it has of surviving when it is released. Don't let the fish flop around on the deck of your boat or in the sand or mud on the bank. If you are going to take the fish home to eat, kill it and get it on ice. Bass that have been left to flop around just don't taste as good as they would if they were properly taken care of. Most bass fishermen practice catch and release. When you release the fish you insure that it will have a chance to spawn (producing even more bass to catch) and you give another fisherman a chance to experience the same excitement you felt as you battled Arnerica's most sought after game fish — the largemouth bass. Blue Lake - South of Wendover on Hwy 93 (about 20 miles) then east on a rough unpaved road to Salt Springs and Blue Lake. There are some really nice bass here but conditions are pretty tough. A float tube, car topper or canoe will really help. No facilities. Bullock - Travel east of Roosevelt on Hwy 40. About one mile past Bottle Hollow turn north and follow the road about four miles. Water is very low due to the drought. No facilities. Cottonwood - Directly north of Bullock Reservoir. No facilities. Cutler - Access off of Hwy 23 between Newton and Junction. There are bass in Cutler pushing six pounds but this is not an easy reservoir to fish. No facilities right on the reservoir. Deer Creek - Access five miles southwest of Heber City. State Park, boat ramps, campgrounds. Minimum bass size is 12 inches. All bass less than 12 inch must immediately be returned to the water. DMAD - Access just northeast of Delta off of Hwy 6. This is an irrigation reservoir so the water fluxuates considerably. No facilities. Gunlock - Access 16 miles northwest of St. George off of Hwy 56. Minimum bass size is 15 inches. All bass less than 15 inches must immediately be returned to the water. There are lots and lots of crayfish here so the bass rarely go hungry. This water contains some really big bass but they are bard to catch. Holmes Creek - Access off of Gentile Road in Layton. Private property. No boats, float tubes or camping. Huntington North - Access just north of the town of Huntington on Hwy 10. State Park and campground. Catch and release only. Good fishing for real chunky 13 to 14 inch largemouth. Hyrum - Access just west of the town of Hyrum. State Park, camping, boat ramp. Poisoned in 1988. Stocked with 60,000 fingerling largemouth this summer. Don't expect any fishing for several years. Ivans - Access Northwest of St. George on the Santa Clara River. Minimum bass size 15 inches. All bass less than 15 inches must be immediately returned to the reservoir. Kaysville Ponds - Along the freeway right in the town of Kaysville. Poisoned last fall and will now be managed as a largemouth bass and bluegill fishery. Over 100,000 fingerling bass were recently stocked in the ponds. Don't expect any fishing for two or three years. Lake Powell - Largemouth fishing is really coming on strong on this big water. Locomotive Springs - Access about 20 miles south of Snowville. No facilities. Lower and Upper Sand Cove - Access northeast of the town of Gunlock. Minimum bass size 15 inches. No facilities. Mantua - Access just out of the town of Mantua. Cormorants have eaten most of the small bass. The large bass are doing fine. Minimum bass size 15 inches. All bass smaller than 15 inches must be immediately returned to the water. Mona - Just out of the town of Mona. Limited access. No facilities. This is an irrigation reservoir that is subject to draw-down. Newton - Access between Clarkston and Tremonton on Hwy 142. Minimum bass size is 12 inches. All bass less than 12 inches must immediately be released back into the water. Pelican - Access just out of the town of Leota. Low water due to drought and winter kill have reduced bass numbers and made this reservoir difficult to fish. Pineview - Access by way of Ogden Canyon. Minimum bass size is 15 inches. All bass less than 15 inches must be immediately returned to the water. Bass fishing is really improving here. Quail Creek. - Access off of Hwy 9 about 12 miles north of St. George. Minimum bass size 15 inches. All bass less than 15 inches must immediately be returned to the water. Camping boat ramp. Water level is low due to dike break in 1988. Bass fishing here has been excellent all summer. Redmond - Access just out of the town of Redmond. There are largemouth here but I couldn't find any information on how well they are doing. Red Fleet - Access nine miles north of Vernal and just east of Hwy 44. Campground and boat ramp. There is a good probability that this water will be poisoned either this fall or in 1990 and then managed as a trout fishery. Rockport - No largemouth. Managed as a smallmouth fishery. Scipio - Access east of the town of Scipio on Hwy 50. No facilities. Minimum bass size is 15 inches. All bass less than 15 inches must immediately returned to the water. Starvation - Largemouth have not done too well here. This lake is rapidly becoming an excellent smallmouth fishery. Steinaker - Access north of Vernal on Hwy 44. Largemouth were illegally planted here along with such a mix of other fish that the DWR is considering poisoning it and starting over. Bass fishing will continue to be good right up until the water is poisoned (either in the fall or sometime in 1990). 21st Street Pond - Access off of south 21st Street in Ogden. There are some nice bass here. Recently stocked with fingerling. Utah Lake - Largemouth have been in this lake since the mid 1930's but they have not done well since carp were introduced into the reservoir. You will have to spend some time hunting for them but once you figure them out, you can get into some really good fishing. Willard Bay - There am not enough largemouth here to worry about. Yuba - Largemouth have not done real well here but if you work at it you can catch some nice fish. |
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