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Chasing Rainbows & Waterfalls

Text & Photo By Dave Webb

I enjoy catching fish. I love to see the dark shadow of a brown trout glide slowly to the surface and inhale my dry fly. I love the adrenaline rush that comes when a smallmouth bass attacks a top-water lure. I love the challenge of battling a big tiger muskie, using finesse to control 30 pounds of razor-sharp teeth and rock-hard muscle.

But, for me, catching fish is only a small part of the fishing experience. Most of all, I love chasing waterfalls. I enjoy seeking out beautiful spots – waterfalls in particular – and fishing provides an excuse for me to enjoy the serenity these spots afford. And I love sharing these most beautiful places with family members and friends. Happily, many such spots offer fishing opportunities but attract few fishermen. I’ve listed some of my favorites below:

Provo River Falls

A series of waterfalls creates a spectacular display on the upper Provo River, along Hwy. 150 in the Uinta Mountains. (The falls are clearly marked by a sign along the highway.) I’ll often drive right past the crowded lower Provo River and head up to a quiet stretch of water below the falls. There aren’t many big fish up that high, but I’ll take the serene setting any day. The falls are a popular stopping place along the highway, but most people stay right there – very few hike downstream or ply the water.

A wide variety of trout species inhabit this water, including brookies, rainbows and browns. Small, dark-bodied flies and nymphs are productive here.

The area around Bridal Veil Falls on the Lower Provo also offers a beautiful setting that is mostly ignored by fishers. The "quality" water above Olmstead Diversion attracts the masses, while the lower reaches of the river see light or moderate pressure. There are good numbers of fish in the water around Bridal Veil, including a few big ones, but not as many trophies as upstream. Browns are common here but you may also catch rainbows and cutthroats. There is a very nice trail system along the river, and it gets heavy use from hikers and bikers.

Fifth Water Falls

This is Utah’s own Firehole River, with hot pools and thermal springs bubbling up everywhere. Two of the pools have been enlarged, so several people can soak comfortably in the hot mineral water. Other pools at streamside are only large enough to accommodate one person.

Fifth Water is a tributary of the Diamond Fork River, in central Utah. It offers a series of three waterfalls just above the hot springs area. The middle falls is very impressive, and plunges into a deep, cold pool. But the upper falls is the most spectacular – dropping more than 50 feet in a graceful arch.

Brown and rainbow trout live in this stream. Water levels drop in late summer and the stream can become quite warm below the hot springs. I usually fish from the falls upstream. Few people fish here, and the trout readily take flies, lures or baits.

Utah County Sheriff’s deputies patrol the area and encourage people to keep their clothes on, but people do skinny dip in the hot pots. You have to watch your back cast when fishing here or you never know what you might hook.

The trailhead to Fifth Water is located at Three Forks, along the Diamond Fork River. A paved road comes from Spanish Fork Canyon into the area. However, that road has been blocked by construction for several months. An alternate route follows Hobble Creek east of Springville, over a pass and then into the upper portion of Diamond Fork Canyon.

From Three Forks, follow the trail east along Sixth Water and then continue east to Fifth Water. It’s clearly marked. It takes about an hour to hike to the falls.

Bullion Falls

Bullion Creek flows east from the Tushar Mountains into the town of Marysvale, along the Sevier River in southern Utah. It’s a small stream that offers good fishing for planted rainbows. The water is clear, but the fish aren’t particularly spooky. You can get them on standard flies or baits.

The entire stream drops about 40 feet over a powerful waterfall, then continues down a series of very steep cascades. It’s very scenic, very photogenic.

To get to the falls, follow Center Street east from Marysvale into Bullion Canyon (it’s clearly marked). The road becomes gravel, with rocky stretches. After about six miles, it crosses the stream and enters an area know as Miners Park. Park by the bridge, then walk back across the bridge and hike upstream, staying on the ATV trail/Jeep road. After about 30 minutes, the ATV trail swerves up the mountain; stay on the rocky trail that follows above the stream. Shortly you will come to a vista where you have a great view of the falls.

Bullion Park is an interesting area offering relics from the old mining ghost towns in the canyon. The remains of several buildings can be seen, along with abandoned mining equipment. Brochures providing a self-guided tour of the area are available in Marysvale and at an information center in the canyon.

Calf Creek Falls

I saved my favorite for last. In my opinion, lower Calf Creek Falls is the most beautiful waterfall in the area. The small stream feathers and drops some 126 feet in an elegant curve, in front of a multicolored cliff. Upper Calf Creek Falls is almost as scenic, although not quite as high and without the rainbow of colors in the cliff face.

The pools below these falls are popular swimming holes for people who hike the canyon. On a summer weekend there will be a dozen or more people flocking under the lower falls, and several swimmers at the upper pool. The water is cold enough to take your breath away, even during the dog days of summer, so swimmers don’t stay in long. But they spend hours dipping their toes in along the edges.

Brown trout, including some large fish, live in Calf Creek. If you want to catch them, work the holes below the falls. There are fish in the pools under the falls, but the swimmers make angling difficult. The stream is small and the fish are wary, so use stealth. Go after them early or late in the day, under low light conditions. Sneak up on the holes and cast softly using thin leader.

Fishing here is often best during the late fall or early spring, when most people stay out of the water. But there will be hikers at the pools virtually every day of the year.

It’s a three-mile hike to the lower falls, over an easy trail. The trailhead is located at the Calf Creek Campground, along Hwy. 12 between Boulder and Escalante. It’s clearly marked.

It’s about a one-mile hike to the upper falls, over a steep and strenuous trail. The trailhead is not marked; ask the campground host for directions.



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