High Uintas Overview

Your source for Utah Recreation and Outdoor Information

Uinta Mountains - Basic Information

So it’s time to head to the high country, where the air is fresh and the nights still get a little nippy. Utah has wonderful high mountain retreats all up and down the state.

In this article we feature one of Utah's most popular alpine playgrounds - the High Uintas.

Overview of the Uinta Mountains

Most of the Uinta Mountain Range is contained within the Ashley National Forest, which was established in 1908 by President Theodore Roosevelt. The western portion lies within the Wasatch-Cache National Forest. Presidential proclamations created the Wasatch National Forest in 1906 and the Cache National Forest in 1907. The High Uintas Wilderness was established by Congress in 1984. It includes 460,000 acres and is the largest wilderness area in Utah.

There are well over 1,000 natural lakes in the Uintas, and more than 500 of them support populations of game fish. There are also over 400 miles of streams. Over 2.5 million visitors come to the Ashley Forest each year for outdoor recreation, including boating, fishing, camping, hiking, backpacking, horseback riding, skiing, off-roading and snowmobiling.

The Uinta Range is the highest in Utah, and is the only major range in the contiguous United States with an east-west orientation. Elevations range from 8,000 feet in the lower canyons to 13,528 feet atop Kings Peak - the highest point in Utah. Ridges divide the area into large, scenic basins; many ridges rise abruptly several thousand feet above the basins.

The mountains' skeleton is pre-Cambrian rock over 600 million years old. These ancient rocks were elevated

under tremendous pressure to form nearly vertical faults. Parent rocks are primarily quartzite with sandstones and shale beds.

In contrast to the surrounding desert, the Uintas receive about 40 inches of precipitation annually, mostly as snow. The growing season is short. Temperatures in areas above 10,000 feet are seldom above 80 degrees during summer days. Night temperatures during summer are 30-40 degrees, with freezing weather possible at any time. Summer afternoon thunderstorms may occur with little warning.

Most of the mountain slopes are forested. Coniferous trees (lodge pole pine, Engelmann spruce, Douglas fir, sub-alpine fir) occur in large continuous stands. Quaking aspen occur in scattered patches throughout most of the lower elevations. Isolated meadows - resembling large parks - and willow fields add variety to the timbered areas. Many peaks extend above tree line.

Camping

Developed campgrounds are located throughout the forest. Camping is also allowed in undeveloped areas. Many developed campsites can be reserved prior to arrival by calling the US Forest Service National Reservation Center. Family campsites on the National Reservation System can be reserved from five to 240 days before arrival. Group sites can be reserved 360 days ahead.

You should reserve campsites as early in the year as possible to avoid busy signals at the Reservation System office, and to assure reservations for the desired sites. Mail-in reservations must be done at least 10 days in advance. The National Recreation Reservation Service can be reached at: 877-444-6777/ TDD 877 -833-6777. Forest campgrounds can also be reserved through the Internet: www.reserveusa.com.

Advance reservations are definitely needed for campgrounds along the Mirror Lake Highway, and for sites anywhere over major holiday weekends. In other areas, most campgrounds have sites available most summer weekends.

The peak season for most campgrounds is Memorial Day through Labor Day. Most Ranger Districts keep some sites open after Labor Day, weather permitting. Call the USFS Reservation Center to make phone-in reservations at least 5 days in advance of the first night of your trip. Mail-in reservations must be made at least 10 days in advance.

The Reservation Center will collect all fees - the reservation fee and the camping fee for all nights of your visit at the time you make your reservation. MasterCard and Visa are accepted with phone-in reservations. Personal checks, money orders, MasterCard, and Visa are accepted for mail-in reservations.

The best maps and guides

High Uintas Wilderness Map, published by the Forest Service. It shows the entire area in detail. It's essential if you are backpacking.

Lakes of the High Uintas booklets published by the Utah DWR. This is a 10-booklet set which describes all waters managed as fisheries. The booklets provide hiking directions and describe fishing opportunities, along with details about camping, spring water and horse feed. They also include maps of specific drainages. These booklets are invaluable as you choose a destination, plan your trip, and make the hike.

The book, Utah Fishing Guide, provides excellent at-a-glance descriptions of lakes. It also provides GPS coordinates for lakes -and that is an extremely valuable bit of information when hiking or backpacking.

Uinta adventures for everyone

Mention the Uintas and most people think about backpacking: forty pounds of weight on your back, four gallons of mosquito repellent in your pack, and 10 miles of steep trail between you and your destination, which is located above tree line, next to a snowfield that never completely melts.

These rugged mountains are ideal for backpacking, and provide opportunities for long trips and solitude. But backpacking is only one great way to enjoy the area. Several options are discussed below:

1. Auto-tour. U.S. Highway 150, which is a national treasure, formally designated a "Scenic Byway," is one of the most beautiful high mountain drives available anywhere. The paved highway stretches 42 miles through mountains and forest, from Kamas, Utah, to Evanston, Wyoming.

Numerous lakes and campgrounds are adjacent to the highway, providing opportunity to camp, fish, hike and mountain bike. The lakes are stocked heavily, and fishing is often good.

Many forms of wildlife can sometimes be seen from the roadway, including deer, elk, moose, small mammals and many species of birds.

Visitors need to be aware that the highway climbs from an elevation of approximately 7,000 feet to nearly 12,000 feet. The highway is usually open from June through early October. A permit is now needed for recreational activity along the highway. You don't need the permit if you are just driving, but if you stop to picnic, hike, fish or camp you need to purchase and display a permit. Permits can be purchased at fee stations on the Kamas side, or at Bear River Service or the Ranger Station on the Evanston side.

Other roads penetrate the mountains from every direction. Most are gravel, and are maintained for summer use.

2. Day-hike. Many lakes and scenic destinations can be reached by short hikes. Along Highway 150, there are many lakes just l or 2 or 3 miles from trailheads. The Highway 150 map that you get at the fee station describes some possibilities. Countless other hikes are available, originating from trailheads all along the route. Day hikes are also possible from other access roads.

3. Short backpack. Some of the best fishing in the mountains can be found at the end of a 5-7 mile backpack. Pack in, set up camp, and you still have several hours of daylight to fish and explore.

4. Extended backpack. Pack into one of the more distant basins. Or make a base camp, then day-hike to the top of King's Peak - the highest spot in Utah.

5. Cross-country backpack. Start at a North Slope trailhead and have someone pick you up at a South Slope trailhead, or vice-a-versa. Or hike for 50 miles or more along the Highline Trail, which runs east-west across much of the wilderness area.

6. Pack in using horses or llamas. Bring in a soft bed, comfortable chair and Dutch oven. (Llamas are quickly growing in popularity as pack animals. For their size, they can carry a considerable load. They are less intrusive and easier to handle than horses.)

7. ATV trails. Motor vehicle travel is restricted in much of the area. But three din roads (Murdock Basin, Broad- head Meadows and East Portal) link more than 20 miles of ATV trails.

8. Snowmobile. The mountains are a popular destination for snowmobilers. Highway 150 and some other roads are open to snowmobile travel. Be sure to stay on designated routes.

Seasons

Many lakes and trails are accessible by July 4th. Extremely high elevation areas start to dry out by the middle of July, and the highest passes usually open in late July. (These dates may be pushed up a bit when winters have light snowfall or when early summer temperatures are higher than normal.)

Some high passes have snowy spots throughout the year, but should be passable from late July through the month of August. High passes may start to accumulate new snow in September.

August is the big month for backpack trips into the high country. Late July and early September can also be good. Some years October is dry and can be pleasant in the high mountains. But fall backpackers need to be extremely careful - harsh storms can arise in a hurry and trap campers.

Most roads and trails become snowpacked during November. At that time it is possible to ski, snowmobile or snowshoe into some lakes for early ice fishing.

Snowmobiling is popular on designated roads and trails in the Uintas. That season is long, often stretching from November into May. Remember, the heart of the Uintas is a protected wilderness area, where motorized travel is not permitted. Stay on designated trails.

Hazards in the Uintas

Lightning occasionally kills people in the Uintas. It's a serious threat, especially above tree line. If a storm starts to build, take cover. Don't wait until you see lightning - by then it might be too late. Get off the peak or ridge. Head for lower ground. Don't hide under a tree which stands by itself; but you can take refuge under a grove of trees off the side of a ridge.

Hypothermia can also be a killer. Be prepared for harsh weather. Bring clothing and gear that protects against rain - it rains almost every day in the high country. It often snows and hails, even in August. The weather can change from hot to freezing cold within just a few minutes. If you get wet and cold then do whatever it takes to get dry and warm. Put up your tent. Build a fire. Drink warm soup. Spending the night in a wet sleeping bag can be more than just uncomfortable - it can be dangerous.

Sunburn is a common problem when hiking at high elevations. The atmosphere is thin and does not filter the sun's rays, so people bum quickly. Wear a hat and sunscreen.

Blisters can be a big problem. If you're 10 miles back, carrying a heavy pack, and you can’t walk because of a blister you're in trouble. Wear boots that fit and are well broken-in. Wear good socks. Carry moleskin and use it before you get a blister. If you feel a "hot spot" developing then stop and adjust your boots and socks. Then cover the spot with moleskin.

Mosquitoes are public enemy number one in the Uintas. They are everywhere, and they can drive you crazy. Bring strong repellent - it really helps. But no repellent will keep the bugs away completely. You're just going to have to live with bug bites.

Bears occasionally cause concern at some campgrounds at mid-eleva- tions. Watch for advisories. Never leave food or garbage around camp, and don't keep food in your tent.

Moose can also be dangerous. They are often seen along the rivers and in marshy areas. Don't try to approach a moose. Pay attention, and never walk between a cow moose and her calf.

Equipment for backpacking

In former times, a frontiersman’s existence sometimes depended his ability to slip through the wilderness without leaving a trace. Today, the existence of the wilderness depends on the ability of backpackers and others to enjoy the outdoors without leaving a trace. Proper equipment helps make that possible, and adds to the safety and enjoyment of an outing.

Modem backpacks are like modern boots. They are expensive, but worth the price. They both make back- packing much more comfortable. They allow a person to carry a heavier load over a greater distance, with greater comfort. Old Army packs and Boy Scout packs will do -particularly for short trips -but the outing will be much more enjoyable with good equipment.

All good packs are adjustable, so a pack can be made to fit a wide range of body-types. But you will be better served by purchasing a pack designed for your size and body-type. Consider renting or borrowing a pack before you buy one, so you can get a feel for what size and style suits you best. Many stores that sell specialized out- door equipment also rent backpacks. Many colleges and universities also rent packs to students and employees. Excellent packs are available incorporating both internal and external frames. They come in a wide variety of sizes - to fit large, medium and small people. There are also packs designed specifically for women.

Inspect packs before each trip. Check tears or worm spots in straps, belts and seams. Make sure all pins and rings are in place and secure. Also check for cracks in the frame, particularly around welds. Learn to make basic repairs to the pack. Carry extra rings and pins.

Boots need to keep feet dry while providing ankle support and protecting the feet while crossing rocky terrain. Boots designed for serious hiking and backpacking are definitely superior to other kinds of shoes or boots. Boots should be made from waterproof material that breathes (allows moisture to escape). Cortex boots are highly recommended - they will keep your feet dry in wet conditions.

The lighter the boot the better, as long as it provides adequate support and foot protection. A pound of weight on your feet is equal to about five pounds on your back. Boot soles need to be hard enough to keep your feet from getting sore on hard, rocky trails. Proper fit is essential. When you go to try on boots, wear the same style you will wear when actually backpacking. (A little difference in sock thickness can make a big difference in fit.) Try on boots when your toenails are trimmed and your feet are clean.

You want a fit that allows your feet to move just slightly inside the boot. You don't want your feet bound too tightly and you don't want them slopping around jamming your toes against the front or rubbing blisters.

Many backpackers prefer to wear a soft, thin sock next to their skin, covered by a heavier wool or synthetic-fiber sock. Such an arrangement helps wick moisture away from the feet.

In Utah's high country it can snow any day of the year. Rainy weather is common - plan on rain every day when backpacking in the Uintas. Always carry a warm, waterproof coat or a jacket and a poncho. Also bring a pack cover, or at least plastic bags to cover sleeping bags and clothes.

Bring waterproof matches, a knife, compass, moleskin, bandages, pain relief medication, and other first aid supplies.